Tuesday, 8 March 2011

The 100th International Women's Day

Nearly 3 months have passed and I am back in the rat race of the London Underground. The sounds that surround the bustle of life in Nairobi and Addis continue to reverberate. Coffee from Yeshi Buna is brewing, filling the kitchen with the rich fragrance that I was enjoying in homes throughout Ethiopia a few weeks ago. Not quite the ceremony it deserves, but the taste brings it all back to the surface...

I was fortunate to take part in a seminar entitled 'Art and the Environment' convened by curator Meskerem Assegued and based on the solo show by artist Elias Sime entitled 'Ants and Ceremicists', which was held simultaneously at the Goethe Institute, British Council, Italian Cultural Institute and Alliance Francaise. The group, brought together writer and critic Pauline Burmann and Vera Tollman, historian Ahmed Zekaria, architect Dawit Benti, curators Claudia Zeiske and Zoma Wallace and writer Juna Wallace. The seminar took us to the new Zoma Contemporary Arts Centre based in the village of Harla: a short drive from Dire Dawa, east of Addis Ababa. We were met by local children, illustrious women and a wise man called Ali Musa, who adopted me and called me 'Iftu' (morning sun in Orominya). We spent a night in a beautiful Harari home and fed wild hyenas in Jegol. The final seminar was held at the British Council in Addis - and collated our thoughts and opened up more questions on the relationship between art and the environment including heritage, community and social responsibility.



Ethiopia needs time, like anywhere else, to understand it and fully appreciate the country and its people. I was struck by the intimacy between men - physically and because of the amount of time they spend in cafes watching the world go by. The hospitality made the experience somewhat familiar even in the most remote village.
I did not take many photographs... pulling a camera out disconnects and I wanted to absorb as much as I can and remember in snippets directly from the memory. The ones I did take seem disappointing now that I am back. Still, some remain on film I am yet to process. All visual hope is not lost and I will post some when they make it to a darkroom soon.

There is a pride in Ethiopia I have never sensed from other Africans I have met. A pride that steeped in history and the sustaining of culture for culture's sake, which invites others, but can at times be taken as arrogance. There are things that don't work. Education that is taught in English and often left to unreasonable chance in terms of course selection at graduate level may not nurture a generation that is passionate about careers they did not necessarily choose. Indifference does not breed change. But there are many claiming ownership in their desired industries. Many of which, Im happy to say, are women.

My experience was enriched by strangers I met in buses and cafes, those in the seminar and many people including and not limited to curators Meskerem Assegued and Konjit Seyoum and artists Elias Sime, Behailu Bezabih, Robel Temesgen, Kebreab Demeke, Helen Zeru, Maedot Getahun and Polly Brannan.